Big Waves Big Fears

The news of a big swell hitting northern California jolted me into excitement. I would be able to witness potentially huge waves up close and personal. No more movies, videos or online pictures to set my internal fears. Now, I would be able to ask myself the questions of, should I…could I…and would I cross this line of surfing.
Rising above Steamer lane's recognizable point, the tip of a big peak darts across the famous Santa Cruz break. A surfer prepares to FREEZE... and ride the double overhead sets that rolled in this morning. This was the first time I had ever seen waves this size with so much shape. Growing up as a kid in Dogtown, when waves reached over 10ft, it meant un-ride able ceilings of water coming down hard. I itched for my board because these big boys I could ride. I realized lines could be crossed but also understood new lines would be drawn... north.




Spectators on the cliff gazed at the A-frame's peal towards shore, as few surfers were present. I drove up the coast to the witness the biggest waves in California. Mavericks, the only California wave that compares to the powerful waves of Hawaii. As I traveled north up highway 1, my attention was constantly taken away from the road. Several times I slammed on the brakes to snap a few pictures of the oceans beauty and wrath.

Finally reaching Mavericks I climbed to a high vantage point to watch the 15 - 18 ft waves break a half-mile off shore. I was somehow surprised to see surfers carrying their long pointy guns to the beach. I guess I was only surprised because I know my own fears as a surfer, and to venture out was to much for me to tackle. I should also mention that the cold water and porous sharp rocks didn't make for an inviting scene. Note the size of the boats and surfers against the incoming set.

However I saw something strange in the eyes of the locals. They were relaxed and blaring smiles, while wishing each other well as they set out to the main peak. I had forgotten that even under conditions of this magnitude that surfing was still a source of fun. Yes the ocean demands respect but the ultimate goal remains the same...to enjoy and relish in being a part of something powerful. I realized my own limits had been redrawn.

Old fears were no longer present but now bigger boundaries where in my scope. The men riding these giants were surfers like myself and at one point there was a first time for them too. As foreign a thought it was I realized one day I would squeeze into a 4:3, grab my sleek gun, and begin the long walk out to face my fears.